RV Electrical Services We Offer

RV electrical systems are a different animal than what's in your house. You've got 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC running through the same coach, a converter trying to keep up, and wiring that's been bouncing down I-95 for years. We deal with this stuff daily. From shore power problems at the pedestal to a dead battery bank that won't charge, we've seen it and we've fixed it.

TL;DR

Full-service RV electrical repair in Fort Pierce. We fix shore power issues, battery problems, inverter failures, converter troubleshooting, and 12V/120V wiring. Mobile service across the Treasure Coast. Call 772-677-6762.

RV electrical panel repair and diagnosis by certified technician in Fort Pierce

Shore Power & Hookup Repair

You plug in at the campground and nothing happens? Could be a bad power cord, a corroded inlet, or a problem at the transfer switch. We always recommend a quality surge protector like those from Progressive Industries to protect your rig's electrical system. We test the full circuit from the pedestal to your breaker panel. Inlet replacements run about $150-250. We carry 30-amp and 50-amp inlets on the truck.

Inverter & Converter Service

Your converter charges the batteries and powers your 12V system from shore power. When it fails, you'll notice dim lights and dead batteries. We test output voltage, check cooling fans, and replace bad boards. Inverter issues usually show up as no AC power when boondocking. We service Progressive Dynamics, WFCO, and Magnum units. A failing converter can also cause problems with your RV appliances that depend on clean 12V power to operate properly.

12V/120V System Diagnosis

Two separate electrical systems working together. That's what makes RV electrical tricky. We use a systematic approach with multimeters and circuit tracers to find the actual problem, not just the symptom. Parasitic draws, voltage drops, ground faults. Takes about 45 minutes for a full system diagnosis.

Circuit Breaker & Fuse Replacement

Breakers that keep tripping aren't always a sign of a bad breaker. Usually there's an overloaded circuit or a short somewhere downstream. We find the root cause first, then replace any faulty breakers or fuses. We stock standard RV breakers and automotive-style fuses for the 12V side.

LED Lighting Upgrades

Still running those old incandescent bulbs? They're pulling way more amps than you need, and they put off a ton of heat. That matters in Florida. We swap everything to LED, usually in about 2 hours for a full rig. Cuts your lighting draw by 80% and your fixtures run cool. Most full upgrades are $200-400.

Battery Bank Installation

Want to boondock longer? We install lithium (LiFePO4) and AGM battery banks sized for your rig. We'll calculate your power needs, build the bank, install a proper battery monitor, and set up your charging system to handle the new batteries. Pairing a battery bank with a solar panel installation is the best way to keep your batteries topped off while dry camping. Lithium setups usually start around $1,200 for a 200Ah system.

Wiring & Harness Repair

Rodents, vibration, and Florida's humidity are the three big enemies of RV wiring. We find chafed wires, corroded connections, and melted terminals. Then we repair them with proper marine-grade connectors and heat-shrink. No electrical tape fixes here. We do it right the first time.

Generator Integration

Got a new Onan, Champion, or Honda genset that needs to be wired into your rig? Or an existing generator that isn't transferring power correctly? We handle the full hookup, including the automatic transfer switch, fuel connections, and exhaust routing. Usually runs $400-800 depending on the setup.

Common Problems We Fix

No Power at All After Plugging In

This is the number one call we get. You hook up to shore power and everything is dead. No lights, no AC, nothing. Most of the time it's a bad GFCI outlet at the pedestal, a tripped main breaker, or a corroded power inlet on the coach. In Florida's coastal air, that salt and humidity eat through electrical connections fast. We test the whole chain and get you lit back up. Usually takes under an hour.

RV wiring repair and electrical troubleshooting service in Fort Pierce, FL

Batteries Dying Overnight

You charge the batteries all day, and by morning they're dead. That's a parasitic draw. Something is pulling power when it shouldn't be. Could be a radio module, a propane detector, a stuck relay, or even a bad diode in your converter. We hook up an amp clamp and pull fuses one by one until we find the culprit. We've seen draws as small as 2 amps drain a battery bank in 12 hours.

Flickering Lights and Intermittent Power

Lights that flicker or dim when you turn on the water pump? That's a voltage drop, and it's usually caused by a loose connection or undersized wiring. It can also mean your converter is on its way out. Down here on the Treasure Coast, the heat and humidity accelerate corrosion at wire terminals, especially in the underbelly where everything is exposed. We find the bad connection, clean it up, and make sure it's solid.

AC Keeps Tripping the Breaker

Your air conditioner pulls a big surge when it starts up, especially in this Florida heat when it's working hardest. If the breaker trips every time the compressor kicks on, it could be a weak breaker, a failing start capacitor in the AC unit, or a campground pedestal that can't deliver enough amps. We test the full circuit and figure out exactly where the problem is. If the issue turns out to be the AC unit itself rather than the wiring, our RV HVAC repair team can diagnose and fix the compressor or capacitor. Sometimes a hard start kit on the AC is all you need. That's a $150-200 fix that saves your breaker and your sanity.

RV electrical system inspection and safety testing in Fort Pierce

How Our Mobile Repair Works

1

Call or Book Online

Reach us at 772-677-6762 or use the contact form on our site. Tell us what's happening with your electrical system. Lights out? No shore power? Batteries not charging? Give us the details so we can bring the right parts. We schedule most calls within 24 hours.

2

We Come to You

Our mobile truck rolls up to wherever your rig is parked. Campground, driveway, storage yard. We run a full diagnostic on the system, explain what we found in plain English, and give you a firm price before we start any work. No surprises.

3

Repair & Test

Once you give us the go-ahead, we get to work. After the repair, we load-test the circuit, verify voltage at every outlet, and make sure everything is drawing properly. You don't pay until you're happy with the work.

RV Electrical Questions We Get Asked

How much does RV electrical repair cost?

It depends on the job. A basic diagnosis runs about $85-125. Breaker and fuse replacements are typically $50-150. Converter repairs or replacements range from $250-600. Shore power inlet swaps are usually $150-250. We always quote a price before starting so you know exactly what you're looking at.

Can you work on both 30-amp and 50-amp RVs?

Yes. We work on 30-amp systems (most travel trailers and smaller Class Cs) and 50-amp systems (fifth wheels, Class As, and larger motorhomes). The wiring, breaker panels, and transfer switches are different between the two, and we carry parts for both on the truck.

Should I upgrade to lithium batteries?

If you boondock regularly or want to run your AC off battery power, lithium is worth the investment. They weigh half as much as lead-acid, last 5-10 times longer, and you can use 100% of the capacity instead of just 50%. The upfront cost is higher, but you'll save money over time. We can size a system for your specific rig and power needs.

Why does my converter fan run constantly?

The converter fan kicks on when the unit is working hard or running hot. In Florida's summer heat, that's pretty normal. But if it runs non-stop even when your battery bank is fully charged, the temperature sensor might be bad, or the converter could be overworking due to a failing battery. We'll test both and let you know what's going on.

Can you add outlets or circuits to my RV?

Absolutely. We add 120V outlets, USB charging ports, 12V accessory outlets, and dedicated circuits all the time. Want a plug near the bed for a CPAP machine? Need a 20-amp circuit for a space heater? We'll run the wire, tie into the panel, and make it look like it came from the factory. Most single-outlet additions run $125-200.

Is it safe to run my RV off an extension cord?

Short answer: don't do it. A standard household extension cord can't handle the amperage an RV draws. It'll overheat, melt, and potentially start a fire. If you need to reach a distant outlet, use a properly rated RV extension cord (10-gauge minimum for 30-amp, 6-gauge for 50-amp). We can install a longer power cord or a secondary inlet if your current setup doesn't reach.